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Lot 16
Floral Print Ballroom Gown, 'The Widows of Culloden', Autumn-Winter, 2006
Cream color with printed bird, butterfly and floral motif, off-shoulder corset bodice and bubble hem, including train and skirt hoop inserts. Sample size.
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NEW YORK, NY — On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 10am, Doyle will auction The Art of Alexander McQueen: The Jennifer Zuiker Collection. This landmark sale comprises 50 lots of couture clothing, handbags and shoes from collections spanning 1995 through 2010. The collection was assembled by Jennifer Zuiker of California, who acquired the pieces directly from the house of McQueen.
Highlighting this extraordinary collection is one of the black parachute silk capes from the Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious collection of Autumn/Winter 2002-03 (est. $40,000-50,000). An example of this dramatic billowing cape with exaggerated bishop sleeves was included in Savage Beauty, the landmark 2011 Alexander McQueen retrospective exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Also noteworthy is a chartreuse glass beaded and horsehair minidress from the Autumn/Winter 2000-01 Eshu collection (est. $30,000-40,000). An example of this dress was included in Savage Beauty. McQueen created a strapless version of this dress for his friend and longtime supporter, fashion editor Isabella Blow.
In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692, McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2007-08 collection, was inspired by family history. His mother, Joyce McQueen, an amateur genealogist, had discovered an ancestor who had been hanged during the Salem witch trials of 1692. One of the standouts from this collection is a gown designed as a bodice of peacock feathers and metal beads with a skirt of pleated English netting (est. $10,000-15,000).
From McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 1995-96 Highland Rape collection is a pair of his iconic black metallic Bumster pants. Designed very low-slung at the rear, they were an instant sensation (est. $1,000-1,500). Said Alexander McQueen, “I wanted to elongate the body, not just show the bum. To me, that part of the body—not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine—that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or woman.” An example of the Bumster skirt from the same collection was included in Savage Beauty.
The Art of Alexander McQueen: The Jennifer Zuiker Collection provides collectors, museum curators and fashion enthusiasts with a rare opportunity to acquire iconic designs by one of the world’s greatest artists of fashion. For more information, please visit Doyle.com.
All the Photos Credit: Doyle
Lot 1
Red and Black Jacquard Weave Tunic Dress, ‘Horn of Plenty’, Autumn-Winter, 2009
Red and black silk with bird motif, stand up collar and pocket. Size 44.
Lot 2
Multi-Color Silk Moth Print Kaleidoscope Dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer, 2010
Green and multi-color moth print, with enamel bead embellishment. Sample size.
Lot 3
Woven Checkerboard Pleated Jumper Ensemble, ‘Scanners’, Autumn, Winter 2003
Black and cream woven checkerboard pleated skirt jumper with asymmetric bodice.Sample size; Together with matching Gandhi Cap Hat by Philip Treacy, black leather bustier and metal decorate belt.
Lot 4
Floral and Paisley Print Strap Flare Dress, ‘It’s Only a Game’, Spring-Summer, 2005
Multi-color cotton blend with swiss lace and short vest. Sample size.
Lot 5
Velvet Vest Suit Ensemble, ‘The Man Who Knew Too Much’, Autumn-Winter 2005
Sage velvet v-neck vest suit with hunter green cord trim design and wide collar front tie cape. Sample size.
Lot 6
Multi-Color Silk and Lamb’s Wool Kaleidoscope Dress, ‘Natural Distinction, Unnatural Selection’, Spring-Summer, 2009
Kaleidoscope print in variations of gray, rounded v-neck with cap sleeve. Sample size.
Lot 7
Green and Gold Strap Dress, ‘Neptune’, Spring/Summer, 2006
Green nylon strap dress with green cabochons and gold bead embellishment. Sample size.
Lot 8
Black Wool and Bronze Metallic Woven Overcoat, ‘Sarabande,’ Spring-Summer, 2007
With side closure and hiked front hem with silk flower embellishment. Sample size; Together with Black Crepe Tricorn Shaped Fascinator.
Lot 9
Black Wool and Bronze Metallic Woven Skirt, ‘Sarabande’, Spring-Summer, 2007
High waist floor length skirt with twelve buttons. Sample size.
Lot 10
McQueen Tartan Wool Dress, ‘The Widows of Culloden’, Autumn-Winter, 2006
Red, black and gold overcheck cap sleeve dress with black lace jabot & petticoat, with nude knit busier and formative pad. Sample size.
McQueen’s inspiration for The Widows of Culloden (Autumn/Winter, 2006) stemmed from his personal interests in his Scottish heritage while referencing the historic Battle of Culloden in 1745. The runway show, a tribute to the widows who lost their husbands in the conflict, featured technically rendered pieces taken from traditional Scottish dress. The dress above features the McQueen Family tartan, a woven design alternating bands of color traditional among Highland dress. The tartan is constructed into a form fitted dress with cap sleeves, a pronounced black lace bustle and black tulle underskirt. McQueen describes the use of his family’s tartan as “a shout against English designer’s…doing flamboyant Scottish clothes.” Similar examples are featured in Alexander McQueen, 2015 and the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Savage Beauty, 2011.
Lot 11
Navy and Black Tail Coat, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer, 2010
With top stitch and grommets. Size 42.
Lot 12
Black Leather Nailhead Stamped Motorcyle Jacket
Asymmetric, with gold-tone metal nailhead stamp motif, zipper and buckle belt. Size 40.
Lot 13
Black and Silver Cross Mink Fur Jacket
With fox fur trim. Size 38.
Lot 14
Black Dropped Waist Dress, ‘The Girl Who Lived in a Tree,’ Autumn-Winter, 2008
Black English netting and lace dropped waist dress with tulle self-petticoat. Sample size.
Lot 15
Black Flapper Dress, ‘Resort’, 2008
Flesh tone base with black silk and polyester embellishment. Size 40.
Lot 16
Floral Print Ballroom Gown, ‘The Widows of Culloden’, Autumn-Winter, 2006
Cream color with printed bird, butterfly and floral motif, off-shoulder corset bodice and bubble hem, including train and skirt hoop inserts. Sample size.
Lot 17
Nude Pink & Beige Snakeskin Leather Skirt Suit, ‘La Dame Bleue,’ Spring-Summer, 2008
Nude and blush-pink tone snakeskin leather skirt with cap sleeve v-neck zip front jacket and sheath skirt. Sampe size.
Lot 18
Cream Silk and Lace Skull Dress, ‘Natural Distinction, Unnatural Selection’, Spring-Summer, 2009
With bubble hem and lace skull motif. Sample size.
Lot 19
Purple Reptile Print Kaleidoscope Ensemble, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer, 2010
Shades of purple and blue reptile print, comprising petal sleeve portrait neck zip front peplum jacket with bubble hem and matching box pleated skirt. Sample size.
Lot 20
Alexander McQueen Bumster Trouser Pant, ‘Highland Rape’, Autumn-Winter 1995
Black silk with flat front and cut-out stripe. Sample size.
The ‘Bumster’ made their first runway appearance during McQueen’s Nihilism Collection Spring/Summer 1994 and would soon become a signature look for the house, continuing to be featured in such collections as The Birds Spring/Summer 1995, and the defining show to which this example is from Highland Rape Autumn/Winter 1995. The Bumsters feature a radically low drop waste, lengthening the spine. As quoted in the 2009 interview with BBC, McQueen stated that “To me that part of the body-not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine-that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or woman.” Similar examples are featured in Alexander McQueen, 2015 and the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Savage Beauty, 2011.
Lot 21
Multi-Color Silk Feather Kaleidoscope Dress, ‘Horn of Plenty’, Autumn-Winter 2009
Mermaid form with high neck and puffed sleeves, elongated train and bustle. Sample size.
Lot 22
Black and White Wool Houndstooth Cocoon Coat, ‘Horn of Plenty,’ Autumn-Winter, 2009
Boucle woven, with v-neck and eight buttons. Size 40.
Lot 23
Reptile Print Silk Dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010
Multi-color silk reptile kaleidoscope print dress with plunging v-neck and cap sleeves. Sample size.
Lot 24
Gray Woven Wool Blend Vest Skirt Suit
Gray, taupe and light lavendar woven wool blend vest with fox fur trim and zip front, with matching skirt and sheath skirt. Size 44.
Lot 25
Dark Brown Leather Jacket
Dark chocolate brown leather with short tuck sleeve and front zip. Size 44.
Lot 26
Black Wool Turtleneck Dress, ‘Pre Fall’, 2009
With cut-out bodice and fitted sleeves. Sample size.
Lot 27
Black Wool Skirt Suit, ‘Pre Fall’, 2009
Boucle cape collar with bell sleeves, including sheath skirt. Size 42.
Lot 28
White Silk Chiffon Blouse, ‘Sarabande’ Spring-Summer, 2007
With front ruffle. Sample size.
Lot 29
Nude Cut-Out Body Suit, ‘Neptune’, Spring-Summer, 2006
Web pattern with sewn copper bead accents. Sample size.
Neptune feasted on the glamour and sex appeal of the 1980’s power-dress era. Many facets of this collection featured short lengths and silhouettes in black coupled with sheer accents, exposed underwear and Grecian undertones. Above is an example of swimwear created with copper bead accents meant to exude glamour and sex appeal as it accentuates the bust, natural hip and mid-drift. Similar examples are featured in Alexander McQueen, 2015.
Lot 30
Knit Nude Body Four-Panel Mini-Dress, ‘Natural Distinction, Unnatural Selection’, Spring-Summer, 2009
Four panels with embellished gold metal rosettes on nude base, v-neck and cap sleeves. Sample size.
Lot 31
Quilted Dark Gray Silk Blend Coat, ‘Horn of Plenty’, Autumn-Winter, 2009
Circular motif, elbow length sleeves and cascading front folds. Size 40.
Lot 32
Multi-Color Silk Kaleidoscope Print Dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer, 2010
Blue and multi-color print with cap sleeves and exaggerated padded hip. Size 44.
Lot 33
Black and Gray Silk Gothic Print Gown, ‘Angels and Demons,’ Fall-Winter, 2010
Black and gray silk Gothic double printed motif with exaggerated cut-out sleeves. Sample size.
Lot 34
Black Cashmere & Chiffon Jacket, ‘Resort’, 2010
Black cashmere and chiffon shirred jacket with red floral decorated sleeves and ten buttons. Sample size.
Lot 35
Cream Cashmere and White Mink Tunic
Cream cashmere boucle tunic with white mink and racoon decorate. Sample size.
Lot 36
Peacock Feather Gown, ‘In Memory of Elizabeth Howe’, Fall-Winter 2007
Exotic peacock and feather embellished bodice over a champagne strap dress wtih pleated English netting skirt. Sample size.
Lot 37
Multi-Color Silk Satin Medieval Print Ensemble, ‘Angels and Demons’, Fall-Winter, 2010
Gold-tone and multi-color medieval print, with one shoulder and gold feather decorate. Sample size.
Lot 38
Chartreuse Glass Bead and Synthetic Horsehair Midi-Dress, ‘Eshu’, Autumn-Winter 2000
Sleeveless with embellished bodice and stand-up collar. Sample size.
McQueen illudes to the natural world throughout his body of work. Most notably, It’s a Jungle Out (Autumn/Winter, 1997) features a collection which included animal skins to portray the symbiotic relationship between the hunter and McQueen’s main inspiration the Thomson Gazelle, as prey. This theme continued into his collection for Eshu (Autumn/Winter, 2000). The dress above features a chartreuse beaded bodice and synthetic horsehair flowing skirt. McQueen included smaller clusters of beads throughout the skirt playing on the idea that the beads are like a parasite and the dress it’s host. One does not exist without the other. The show drew inspiration from the story of a Victorian lady named Eshu, who resettled in Africa. The name Eshu is derived from an earth deity the Yoruba peoples of Africa worship. Another example was custom-made for friend Isabella Blow which features a strapless bodice. Similar examples are featured in Alexander McQueen, 2015 and the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Savage Beauty, 2011.
Lot 39
Black Silk Parachute Cape, ‘Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious’, Autumn-Winter 2002
Mandarin collar with eye-hook closure and exaggerated bishop sleeves, bubble back and train. One size.
Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, Autumn/Winter 2002 combined McQueen’s love for the Victorian era and cinematography. Quoted by Reuters in a 2001 interview, McQueen stated “Life to me is a bit of a [Brothers] Grimm fairytale.” The collection is an homage to film maker Tim Burton, known for his portrayal of melancholic set design and characters. In Burton’s Batman (1989), the audience is introduced to Michael Keaton as the Batman in his disguise of a form-fitting facial mask, black body suit and flowing cape which doubles as his bat wings. McQueen reimagined this disguise bringing his viewers the cape above which features a coat of black parachute silk with a billowing bubble train. The look was completed on the runway with the addition of a black silk tri-corn hat by Philip Treacy and mask. Similar examples are featured in Alexander McQueen, 2015 and the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Savage Beauty, 2011.
Lot 40
Black Leather and Guinea Feather Gauntlet Gloves
Size 7.
Lot 41
Group of Shoes
Comprising pair of silver metallic strap sandals size 36, and a pair of black leather, gold painted and resin floral booties (no size).
Lot 42
Group of Shoes
Comprising a pair of ivory and gold tone open toe sandals with scale design; a pair of black satin open toe pumps; a pair of gray leather platform stilettos; and a pair of taupe leather platform booties. All size 35 1/2.
Lot 44
Iris Plexiglass Box Clutch
Molded Gothic motif with Swarovski-embellished gold-tone metal clasp depicting a blooming Iris flower with skull center. Height 6 inches, width 6 inches, depth 2 inches.
Lot 45
Silver Cathedral Skull Box Clutch
Of silvered brass with signature skull clasp. Height 31/2 inches, width 6 1/2 inches, depth 2 1/4 inches.
Lot 46
Black and Gold Embossed Leather Box Clutch
C An Important Collection of Alexander McQueen Couture, the Jennifer Zuiker Collection
Lot 47
Black Leather Studded ‘Union Jack’ Box Clutch
With signature black crystal embellished skull clasp. Height 3 1/2 inches, width 6 inches, depth 1 3/4″.
Lot 48
Cream and Light Taupe Seed Pearl ‘Union Jack’ Box Clutch
With signature skull clasp. Height 3 3/4 inches, width 6 inches, depth 1 3/4 inches.
Lot 49
Cream Leather Bone Serpent Knuckle Box
Featuring a four ring signature clasp with a coiled cobra snake around two horns and a skull. Height 6 inches, width 6 inches, depth 2 inches.
Lot 50
Houndstooth Four-Ring Knuckle Clutch
With signature hinged clasp of skull and crystal ring embellishments. Height 5 inches, width 9 1/2 inches, depth 2 inches.
